28 July 2008
07 July 2008
Fruit Sticker Garnishes/ Sept 2007
What started out as a joke with a friend of mine Marco Farone from Sydney, when he recieved a drink with a fruit sticker on the garnish. We started talking about when we were starting out in the trade as barbacks and how annoying it was peeling all the little stickers off the fruit..... this lead me to thinking would'nt it be nice to have stickers that were part of the garnish and could be left on so to speak! ..... so I got these made with that in mind and they where used for garnishes for some of the drinks I was doing..... 
The "Farone Island Ruby Limes" had an extra twist in that I dyed the insides and changed there flavour using food grade essences.... so heres to you Marco.......
The "Farone Island Ruby Limes" had an extra twist in that I dyed the insides and changed there flavour using food grade essences.... so heres to you Marco.......
04 July 2008
Deconstructed Wine/ Chef Unknown?
Apparently a wine desert soup with the composite flavours deconstucted....... Interesting!!
Airs
Airs
Airs where an extention of the foams, (but they are much lighter in consistency) in the el bulli menus. The first of these was a carrot and orange air. This was later adapted and used for a salt air Margarita. The Margarita was presented in a frozen block of ice itself frozen. Then had a sea salt air foam over the top which you kind of breath in, then eat the Margarita. And eat a tarragon ball.
The chemical that is used that in the lyshophine or soya lechtin which is a emulsifier, commonly used in the chocholate industry to keep chocolate bars together and to stop them melting.It also occurs naturally in various vegetation. When lechtin is added to a liquid in very small quantities it binds the water particles in the liquid in a kind of web, so that when the liquid is agitated and bubbles are produced the lechtin creates a wall around the bubble which will hold for a limited amount of time. Think what bubble bath does in the bath it works on a similar principle.
The result is a much lighter version of the foam which can quite literally be breathed in.
The process is relatively easy to achieve:
1 g soya lechtin
1 litre liquid (more lechtin the heavy the liquid, remember don’t at to much more as it will make the liquid taste creamy and could detract from the flavour you want)
place all ingredients in a large basin which you have placed on a tilt. See fig….
Blend at an angle with a hand blender.
Leave to settle for a minute.
Scoop out of basin with large kitchen spoon.
Place in place desired, repeat process carefully piling air on top of itself.
Don’t go to high as it will fall in on itself. Practice in this case will give you an eye for when and how high you can get.
Mint
Mint is vital to a whole range of cocktails, from the Mojito upwards (or downwards depending on your point of view), yet has always proved a problem to keep fresh, especially for a long service. It is quite a delicate herb, and traditional solutions like covering it with a wet cloth or putting the stems in a glass of water have their own problems.
The problem seems to start as soon as you strip the bottom leaves off a sprig and cut the stem short. The enzymes in the plant start to degrade and the mint starts to go brown.
We looked at ways of arresting this process, or at least of slowing it down. Freezing was an obvious choice, but this would be impractical as drinks require fresh, not frozen mint. But this did lead us to look at what actually happened to the mint when it was frozen. It slows down the the enzymes working and the mint going limp or brown.
It was obvious that freezing stopped the degradation process, and stopped the mint going brown. So we wondered if we could use a part of that process ie to flash freeze or like a reverse blanching.
So we cut the stems to length with a sharp knife and plucked all leaves apart from the top ones. We placed the cut stems and leaves in very cold shallow water (with crushed ice) and covered them with more ice for five minutes only. This seemed to seal the mint leaves, almost cold searing them, (as the common misconception that you hot sear a steak to keep the juice in): the flavour is kept in, and the only disadvantage is that the mint loses just a shade of its colour although if get the timing right, you keep this to an absolute minimum.
After that, all we needed to do was place the ends of the stems standing up in a container with shallow water and store them in the fridge until needed. But the mint looked spritely all night long.
The problem seems to start as soon as you strip the bottom leaves off a sprig and cut the stem short. The enzymes in the plant start to degrade and the mint starts to go brown.
We looked at ways of arresting this process, or at least of slowing it down. Freezing was an obvious choice, but this would be impractical as drinks require fresh, not frozen mint. But this did lead us to look at what actually happened to the mint when it was frozen. It slows down the the enzymes working and the mint going limp or brown.
It was obvious that freezing stopped the degradation process, and stopped the mint going brown. So we wondered if we could use a part of that process ie to flash freeze or like a reverse blanching.
So we cut the stems to length with a sharp knife and plucked all leaves apart from the top ones. We placed the cut stems and leaves in very cold shallow water (with crushed ice) and covered them with more ice for five minutes only. This seemed to seal the mint leaves, almost cold searing them, (as the common misconception that you hot sear a steak to keep the juice in): the flavour is kept in, and the only disadvantage is that the mint loses just a shade of its colour although if get the timing right, you keep this to an absolute minimum.
After that, all we needed to do was place the ends of the stems standing up in a container with shallow water and store them in the fridge until needed. But the mint looked spritely all night long.
Booklist/Class Article/ July 2008
I get asked a lot what books are useful to me in what I do the answers are varied but probably the most useful book I have found over the past few years is a book written by Harold McGee called “ On Food and Cooking, The science and Love of the Kitchen”. It is quite simply a book that looks at culinary love and the science behind it.
The book really is a great read; even the bits that are not applicable to liquid or alcohol; you find yourself wandering into those parts anyway as they are just incredibly interesting. McGee’s questioning of what we take for granted is infectious, you end up asking yourself questions about the everyday things. It is full of great historical references i.e. the invention of the thermometer, a lot of very easy to read science bits i.e. how sugar works, some not so easy science bits although you can (after a few reads) get through them, some great anecdotal stuff; but best of all it has a whole section on Alcohol (Chapter 9). The chapter covers everything; wine, beer, spirits, distillation, the history of alcohol, even what a hang over is!
In addition to alcohol, you also have a section on fruit; which can be a real eye opener and an extremely useful section on sugars.
Overall, I cannot praise this book enough as it really does open up the gateway to the sometimes, baffling world of science, and instead introduces you to a universe of comprehensible ideas which can be used to improve, and inform, your craft. Finally, the best thing about it is, it inserts the question in you; why does that do that?
This can head towards, why don’t I try that? and that’s when the fun begins!!
Other great books are Kitchen Mysteries: Revealing the Science of Cooking or Molecular Gastronomy (exploring the science of flavour) both by Herve This, these books are quite dense and difficult to understand for the layman although well worth working through if you have the patience.
There are some great chapters especially the ones 77/78 on Champagne which are a really fascinating and gives you a great insight to Herve This’s thinking!
And just before we get all to serious I thought I would throw in a fantastic book called Hellraisers that is on the drinking stories of Richard Burton, Peter O’Toole, Oliver Reed and Richard Harris some of the biggest hellraisers of the last century which is full of some of the funniest drinking stories I have ever read….
The book really is a great read; even the bits that are not applicable to liquid or alcohol; you find yourself wandering into those parts anyway as they are just incredibly interesting. McGee’s questioning of what we take for granted is infectious, you end up asking yourself questions about the everyday things. It is full of great historical references i.e. the invention of the thermometer, a lot of very easy to read science bits i.e. how sugar works, some not so easy science bits although you can (after a few reads) get through them, some great anecdotal stuff; but best of all it has a whole section on Alcohol (Chapter 9). The chapter covers everything; wine, beer, spirits, distillation, the history of alcohol, even what a hang over is!
In addition to alcohol, you also have a section on fruit; which can be a real eye opener and an extremely useful section on sugars.
Overall, I cannot praise this book enough as it really does open up the gateway to the sometimes, baffling world of science, and instead introduces you to a universe of comprehensible ideas which can be used to improve, and inform, your craft. Finally, the best thing about it is, it inserts the question in you; why does that do that?
This can head towards, why don’t I try that? and that’s when the fun begins!!
Other great books are Kitchen Mysteries: Revealing the Science of Cooking or Molecular Gastronomy (exploring the science of flavour) both by Herve This, these books are quite dense and difficult to understand for the layman although well worth working through if you have the patience.
There are some great chapters especially the ones 77/78 on Champagne which are a really fascinating and gives you a great insight to Herve This’s thinking!
And just before we get all to serious I thought I would throw in a fantastic book called Hellraisers that is on the drinking stories of Richard Burton, Peter O’Toole, Oliver Reed and Richard Harris some of the biggest hellraisers of the last century which is full of some of the funniest drinking stories I have ever read….
01 July 2008
Dave Wondrich/NY/ Interview/ July 2008
1. What is the first cocktail you ever made? I believe it was a Tequila Sunrise, made in an old Army canteen with tequila, OJ and grenadine and drunk out in the woods with my little teenage friends. I learned how to make it from my Friend Jon, who was from Texas.
2. What are your 3 favourite drinks plus recipes; old, new and your own? This varies from week to week, but there are the ones that are at the top of the stack right now; the last one is my own:
a. Prescription Julep In a highball glass, dissolve 2 teaspoons superfine sugar in a pony (1oz) of water. Lightly press a sprig of mint in the resulting syrup and discard. Using a carpenter's maul and a coin sack, pulverize a goodly quantity of cold, hard ice. Pack the glass with the pulverized ice. Add a jigger (2 oz) XO-grade cognac (I like Martell Cordon Bleu)and 1/2 pony straight rye whiskey. Stir briefly and top the glass off with more fine ice. Float 1/2 oz dark, pot-stilled rum on top. Insert 3 sprigs of mint and a straw. Then smile.
b. Daiquiri (Original Style) Squeeze 1/2 lime into a cocktail shaker. Stir in 1/2 teaspoon superfine sugar. Add 2 oz Havana Club Anejo Blanco rum (or equivalent) Shake vigorously with plenty of ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
c. Jakewalk Shake well with plenty of ice: 3/4 oz Reposado tequila 3/4 oz rhum agricole 3/4 oz St. Germain 3/4 oz fresh-squeezed lime juice Strain into chilled cocktail glass and garnish with piece of candied ginger.
3.Tell us about a new flavour you have discovered recently? The delicate, lightly floral taste of well-distilled toddy-palm sap. Delightful.
4. If you could pass just one thing, on to an apprentice bartender what would it be? Know everything but never act like you do.
5. What does the future hold for yourself and what do you see happening in the future in the industry? God, I wish I knew. I'm working on a book on Punch, that much I know. As for the industry, it's like any other game of musical chairs.
6. What has been your biggest satisfaction from working behind the bar? As a non-bartender, I'm thrilled any time I get to step behind the bar and make drinks for people.
7. If you were to have a conversation with a cocktail, (and presuming it could talk back to you and tell you its past). Which cocktail would it be and why? I would very much like to have a few words with the Manhattan. All too often I find Mr. Whiskey bullying his wife, Ms. Vermouth, and whoring around instead with that rouged slut Cherry Juice, while totally neglecting the little Dashes. I will not put up with it.
8. What influences your drinks from outside the industry (i.e. art, fashion)? Well, history, I guess. Is tat outside the industry?
9. If you were to break a bartending golden rule what would it be? I would like to be able to wear a hat behind the bar. I like hats.
10. Outside of flavour and the craft of the cocktail what in your opinion effects the appreciation of cocktails the most? The backstory.
11. If you were to champion a cocktail which would it be? The Holland Gin Cocktail. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Another, please, just like that.
Dave Wondrich of NY fame is the author of the fantastic Imbibe book...
1. What is the first cocktail you ever made? I believe it was a Tequila Sunrise, made in an old Army canteen with tequila, OJ and grenadine and drunk out in the woods with my little teenage friends. I learned how to make it from my Friend Jon, who was from Texas.
2. What are your 3 favourite drinks plus recipes; old, new and your own? This varies from week to week, but there are the ones that are at the top of the stack right now; the last one is my own: 1. Prescription Julep In a highball glass, dissolve 2 teaspoons superfine sugar in a pony (1oz) of water. Lightly press a sprig of mint in the resulting syrup and discard. Using a carpenter's maul and a coin sack, pulverize a goodly quantity of cold, hard ice. Pack the glass with the pulverized ice. Add a jigger (2 oz) XO-grade cognac (I like Martell Cordon Bleu)and 1/2 pony straight rye whiskey. Stir briefly and top the glass off with more fine ice. Float 1/2 oz dark, pot-stilled rum on top. Insert 3 sprigs of mint and a straw. Then smile. 2. Daiquiri (Original Style) Squeeze 1/2 lime into a cocktail shaker. Stir in 1/2 teaspoon superfine sugar. Add 2 oz Havana Club Anejo Blanco rum (or equivalent) Shake vigorously with plenty of ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. 3. Jakewalk Shake well with plenty of ice: 3/4 oz Reposado tequila 3/4 oz rhum agricole 3/4 oz St. Germain 3/4 oz fresh-squeezed lime juice Strain into chilled cocktail glass and garnish with piece of candied ginger. 3.Tell us about a new flavour you have discovered recently? The delicate, lightly floral taste of well-distilled toddy-palm sap. Delightful. 4. If you could pass just one thing, on to an apprentice bartender what would it be? Know everything but never act like you do. 5. What does the future hold for yourself and what do you see happening in the future in the industry? God, I wish I knew. I'm working on a book on Punch, that much I know. As for the industry, it's like any other game of musical chairs. 6. What has been your biggest satisfaction from working behind the bar? As a non-bartender, I'm thrilled any time I get to step behind the bar and make drinks for people. 7. If you were to have a conversation with a cocktail, (and presuming it could talk back to you and tell you its past). Which cocktail would it be and why? I would very much like to have a few words with the Manhattan. All too often I find Mr. Whiskey bullying his wife, Ms. Vermouth, and whoring around instead with that rouged slut Cherry Juice, while totally neglecting the little Dashes. I will not put up with it. 8. What influences your drinks from outside the industry (i.e. art, fashion)? Well, history, I guess. Is tat outside the industry? 9. If you were to break a bartending golden rule what would it be? I would like to be able to wear a hat behind the bar. I like hats. 10. Outside of flavour and the craft of the cocktail what in your opinion effects the appreciation of cocktails the most? The backstory. 11. If you were to champion a cocktail which would it be? The Holland Gin Cocktail. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Another, please, just like that.
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