Luc Merlet Interview

Luc and his brother Pierre joined the MERLET family business in 2005. Their father Gilles still heads up the company but allows Luc and Pierre to bring their modern ideas and methods into the company. Luc looks after the marketing and sales whilst Pierre focuses on production and quality. Combined they have created probably one of the finest liquer brands in the world.

1. What is the first cocktail you ever made?
-Being from a distillers family, I’ve been surrounded by alcoholic beverages since I can remember. Even though cocktails are not a big tradition in the Cognac area, I’ve always seen my father doing sort of cocktails for friends and family. The two I can remember the best are Kir and a Cognac punch with orange juice, campari and sparkling. As kid I had fun helping him to prepare them.

2. What are your 3 favorite drinks plus recipes; old, new and your own?

-The Sidecar is definitely my favourite classic. Depends on the Cognac and the Triple Sec but I make it either with 2 shots Cognac and 1 shot lemon, 1 shot triple sec, or 1/3 of each ingredient.

Among new drinks, I had been struck by the Bramble when I came to the UK in 2006 and I tried it first. It made me looking at my Crème de Mûre from a different angle and the perspectives that it opened the combinations of gin with dark berries.

Not being a bartender, I have my “safe” drink that I make to friends when they come home : Cognac, sweet vermouth, cassis and a twist of orange.

3.Tell us about a new flavor you have discovered recently?

-We’ve working the past month on our new Crème de Melon and beyond the difficulty to make a good liqueur out of it, that’s the kind of fruit which has quite a big gap between how it smells and how it taste. That’s a very interesting flavor which can add a lot to a drink but also can completely take over. I had lot of fun to sample it with bartenders and to experiment cocktail recipes with it. I particularly remember a Melon margarita we did with Dick Bradsell which was fantastic.

4. If you could pass just one thing, on to an young bartender what would it be?

-As spirits producer I would tell them not to listen to what everybody tells about brands but to try to find themselves the quality of a product and its real story. It’s not because everybody uses a product that it is a good. Taste your products, try them in your drinks and make your own opinion.

5. What does the future hold for yourself and what do you see happening in the future in the industry?

-We have a deep hearted project at Merlet which is to carry on producing the best possible liqueurs and now we’ve launch our own Cognac label, we want to gain the acknowledge of a high standard niche brand. It means a lot to the family as we’ve been distilling for 5 generations for other brands. I’d love to see the industry working on old spirits such as Cognac. It is a great thing that gin has come back in spotlight, I’d like to see the same with other white spirits which personality such as pot distilled cachaças, agricole rums, etc. but also dark spirits.

6. What has been your biggest satisfaction from working with Bartenders?

-My biggest satisfaction with working with bartenders has been to show my liqueurs from a different angle. It has changed our approach to elaborate new products. We now work a lot with them to test our recipes in drinks and to adjust them. The craft of a cocktail and a liqueur is very similar in a way but at a different scale.

7. If you were to have a conversation with a cocktail, (and presuming it could talk back to you and tell you its past). Which cocktail would it be and why?

-Tell me Mr Negroni, why do I like so much your bitterness, me being such a sweet person who usually hates disabused people???

8. What influences your drinks from outside the industry (i.e. art, fashion)?

-Gastronomy a lot. Since I’ve been traveling in many countries to promote our brand, looking at all those chefs from different countries has inspired me a lot. Then I’d say that travels in general is big source of inspiration : it forces you to look at things a different way, to consider different points of views, to discover new flavours, smells, combination of colours, etc.

9. If you where to break a bartending golden rule what would it be?

-I leave that appreciation to bartenders. But one rule which is very often broken and that bartenders should more keep in mind is that the client is king and you have to make him the drink he asks, even if it’s a crap one.

10. Outside of flavor and the craft of the cocktail what in your opinion effects the appreciation of cocktails the most?

-The atmosphere for sure. Everything counts and it’s all about the combination of the service, the presentation of the drink, the people you’re sharing it with. Music and lighting are often the last things which are appropriate. A lot of place should give more attention to them.

11. If you where to champion a cocktail which would it be?

-The mojito as it has brought a lot of people to discover cocktails, especially in France. Still it is not as easy to make as a lot of people pretend.

Old School of the Savoy

On Tuesday 19th April there was a coming together of minds when Peter Dorelli of the Savoy and Spike Marchant sat down at 69 Colebrooke Row. Spike proceeded to pick apart and engage the stories from Peter who recounted the old days of the Savoy and how things have changed since.

Peter is arguably the most well known of the ex Head Bartenders at the Savoy and Spike is the much respected ex Maitre D of Dicks Bar at the Atlantic Bar and Grill.

The original menu's from the Savoy

Peter making an old fashioned

Peter addresses the captivated crowd

Regardless of, what I understand, was little conversation prior to the event between the two, the evening was a success for all participating and the two speakers with everyone going away having gained something from the evening as well as some rarely heard information about Pebbles Bar where Peter worked with his brother......

We have a film being edited as we speak which will be up very soon.

Water Sound Images

This video is from the documentary of Alexander Lauterwasser "Water Sound Images" and his incredible research on the effect of vibration/sound and how it creates form.

Pretty amazing to watch really. Skip to 1:32 for our favourite bit!

Beachbum Berry Article

"The chocolate put us in mind of Willy Wonka, which put us in mind of Tony Conigliaro. The latter is often compared to the former, and we found out why on our first visit to Tony’s bar, 69 Colebrook Row. Upstairs is a drink lab that rivals Wonka’s factory, with gleaming, whirring machines that can actually remove the alcohol from a spirit, and then put it back again. Another of Tony’s experiments — aging cocktails as you would wine or spirits — yields truly spectacular results. Downstairs in his cozy, convivial saloon, we sampled an El Presidente aged six months, and another aged a full year; after a palate-cleansing house Mojito sorbet, presented on a spoon by courtly Colebrook barman Marcis Dzelzainis, we assayed a one-year Manhattan and a six-year Manhattan. All four barrel-aged drinks tasted as if the individual ingredients had merged on a cellular level, in a kind of reverse mitosis: the aged Manhattan still tasted like a Manhattan and the Presidente like a Presidente, but both cocktails seemed to be composed of a single ur-ingredient — one that sprang whole from Zeus’s thigh, like Dionysis himself — and not a composite blend of vermouth, bitters, and base liquor. On our next visit to 69 Colebrook Row, we fully expect to see Donn Beach conversing with Madame Curie — both reanimated by the newest miracle potion from Tony’s lab (pictured below, with Tony at work)."

Thanks to Jeff for this. Read the full article over at Beachbum Berry.

opps sorry!

After some research, I know realise that I got one of my facts wrong during my talk in Sweden.

The premise I stated was that water molecules are bigger than alcohol molecules when the reverse is actually true and alcohol molecules are actually much bigger than water.

However the principle still stands of why alcohol has a lower boiling point than water because boiling point is not an indication of size but rather of how strong are the forces holding one molecule to the next. In the case of water the forces are very strong - they are called hydrogen bonds - and there is a multiple cross - linking between molecules. So each water molecule is strongly connected to at least four others. In ethanol the presence of CH2CH3 group reduces the ability to crosslink.

The points I made are still relevant as that is how it reacts. However I did get the size wrong!

Tony C

Pionners 2011 Presentation

As promised the presentation from the Pioneers New York/Chicago/Lost Angelese 2011.

Hydrosols

Hydrosols are a water distillation in which the essential oils have been suspended in the water.

An efficient method of making a hydrosol is by using a Buchi Rota Evaporator. The Rotavapor allows distillation to take place but under a vacuum meaning you are able to change the boiling temperature. Meaning you are able to distill more delicate ingredients which who's volatiles would be destroyed at normal boiling temperature and distillation conditions.

Food Pairing Ideas and Concepts

There are few moments more rewarding when working behind a bar than when you hit that perfect combinatoin of flavours that seamlessly blend together.

Suggestions and pointers in this process are always welcome and Bernard Lehousse from Food Pairing is a man who can help. He started by analysing the chemical structure of food products and looking at where there are overlays in their flavour. His work produces some interesting results and surprising combinations that shouldn't work on paper but chemically and practically do.

His work, recently, has branched out into spirit/wine/coffee analysis, meaning we now know that American Bourbon Whisky, from a chemical point of view, will work well with parmesan cheese, soy sauce or rose.

As well as offering a breakdown of overlays they now offer a flavour wheel which offers a more detailed breakdown of Whisky. Not only on a chemically structural level but also on his new site he offers a service which give direct insights into the flavour groups that pair well with with certain products.

Wet Dogs Nose

As useful and intricate aroma can be in cocktails one aroma not so welcoming is the Dogs Nose smell that can come from egg white which has been sitting for too long or is a product of the eggs composition reacting with the alcohol creating a damp smell on the top of your drink. When we factor in aroma counts for 80% of flavour it is obvious how this can quickly ruin a drink.

There had been a long standing conversation between Tony Conigliaro and Audrey Saunders, searching for a solution to the problem. Tony had a eureka moment and beyond just getting around it, he actually took the reaction of the egg with alcohol and used it to add another layer of flavour to a drink.

The technique involves a sealed box containing eggs, which cotton buds are added to. A food grade essence is then dripped sparingly onto the buds before sealing the box and leaving it over night. The aroma in the box will then fill all the empty space including seeping into the egg itself as the the shell is semi-permeable, which means it will absorb small molecules around it, literally adding flavour to the egg itself.

Vintage Manhattans

The process for the 2004 vintage, took Van Winkle Rye Whisky, 1920's dubonnet, and various port vintages or red wine then left the batchs in either glass or wood for 6 months. Both batchs were then bottled and left in cellar for either 1 year, 6 years, or the new 7 year 2011 vintage.

Wood Aged Manhattan

For the new Wood Aged Manhattan the process began with wood staves, which is wood taken from both light and dark bourbon barrel. We then batch made a Manhattan mix, in the classic way but without diluting the drink.

This batch was then distilled leaving a colourless liquid, but what it also did was remove the "woody" notes from the cocktail leaving a very clean crisp flavour.




Once the distillation was complete we then transferred the distilled Manhattan into the same bottle as the wood staves. The process has been going for 5 months so far, the picture above illustrates how much the colour and flavour has changed already in this time.

The Zetter Town House (ZTH) In Vogue Italy

Thank you to Vogue Italy for the feature on the new Zetter Town House.

Talk this Tuesday 19th April

Peter Dorelli legendary ex Head Bartender of the Savoy will be talking with Spike Marchant (ex matre D at the Dick's bar at the Atlantic bar and grill).

@ 69 Colebrooke Row on Tuesday the 19th from 2pm.
They will be talking about the "good old days" at the Savoy and about hosting bars.

Eat Japan: Kigo master class

Take a look back at the Japanese Master Class, held at 69 Colebrooke row on February 26th.

"The Bar With No Name, at 69 Colebrooke Row in Angel, London, is an award-winning speakeasy style cocktail bar that's one of the very best in the UK. On February 26 it hosted a Japanese Cocktail Masterclass, sponsored by KIGO Shochu and led by Tony Conigliaro, a pioneering drinks creator whose innovative and exciting flavour combinations have been delighting drinkers for more than a decade."

Read the full article at Eat Japan Trade Directory

Modern Re-workings

These are our take on classic drink structures that we have played around with and re-worked.

Flintlock
The flintlock is inspired by the New Orleans classic the Sazerac. This interpretation is based on the same principles but with a gin flavour profile rather than Bourbon. We take Beefeater 24 as a base and add gunpowder gomme, dandelion and burdock bitters whilst washing the other glass with Fernet Branca

Nettle Gimlet
This is a re-work of the classic Gimlet. It incorporates a cordial where we dried nettles out which give a tanic taste that works with Beefeater gin.

Dirty Martini
Instead of using the brine from olives which leaves a salty water flavour with a bit of olive we tried to create something with a more "olivey" flavour profile. we looked for a way of purifying the flavour. We made an olive mash then ran this through a centrifuge, meaning we could seperate pulp, oil, and pure olive flavour.

New Beefeater 24 Concept Drinks

We are very proud to showcase these new concept drinks we have created in collaboration with Beefeater 24. We have drawn inspiration from bartenders of the past, and innovative ways of activating the senses to create what we think are creative new drinks.

Kata
The Kata takes two similar herbs from different cultures and combines them within one drink. The cocktails base is Beefeater 24 infused with basil which vermouth infused with shiso is then added to. Inspired by chemical overlays between shiso, vermouth basil and gin the flavours match seemlessly.

Plume

The plume takes influences from Japanese culture. The drink includes Beefeater 24, silver needle tea and Kigo. Inspired by the green tea ceremony involving and Japan gardens. It uses smell as an essential addition to the cocktail. The incence is used both as way of enhancing the flavour and as a way of creating a scene and meditative mood the drinker can immerse themselves in.

Köln Martini
The Köln Martini takes Beefeater 24, Dry martini and add a single drop of köln essence. Inspired by a recipe found in the second edition of Jerry Thomas' book. The köln recipe has been re-figured using food grade essences to create a multi layered spritz.

Esther Medina Cuesta Interview

Esther Medina is arguably the first lady of the London bar scene. With a beautifully refreshing attitude, throwing the emphasis back onto customer satisfaction instead of personal expression, her passion for her work shines through the brightest.

1 What is the first cocktail you ever made?
-It was probably a spiced tea with a hint of triple sec that I made while helping my cousin with her Nursing Final Project.
My first original behind the stick was a twist on a Webster but, of course, I didn't know that at the time.

2 What are your 3 favorite drinks plus recipes; old, new and your own?
-Travelling to the past, I couldn't choose between a slightly wet Martini or a Manhattan with Rye and Italian style vermouth dashes of Maraschino and Angostura. But, if I don't mention a Sazerac or a nice sharp Side Car they will probably get jealous and never allow me to enjoy their beauty again. This said, though, I do love any good spirit stirred with ice with something sweet sweet and bitter. As you can see, I don't believe in drink monogamy.

New drinks? An Esspresso Martini (bless you Mr. Bradsell) made with rum or tequila and a good coffee liqueur - no sugar mind but sometimes a bit of homemade falerum.

My own, Royal Up Beet: 2 spoons of beetroot puree –beetroot just steamed and blended-, ½ a part of Maraschino liqueur, ½ a part of Agave Sec –or very dry triple sec and some agave syrup-, pinch of grounded cumin, 1 part sexy Blanco tequila, a squeeze of fresh lime juice, 3 parts of Rose Sparkling wine –nothing too dry best something rather fruity. Mix in a tin and serve in a frozen flute with one ice cube. Garnish with fresh crushed black pepper and a long lime string.

3 Tell us about a new flavor you have discovered recently?
-The latest addition to my ingredients pot is watercress. Its freshness is a natural wake me up and it’s a good source of antioxidants, minerals and vitamins – it’s a great revitalising ingredient.

4 If you could pass just one thing, on to an apprentice bartender what would it be?
-‘The guest should be the focus of your craft’ or ‘never forget that a good bartender must be a good host’ or ‘Be knowledgeable but humble’ or ‘clean as you go’!
Just one thing? Be professional.

5 What does the future hold for yourself and what do you see happening in the future in the industry?
-I see myself continuing to spread the passion and satisfaction of this noble art and industry evolving towards a bright innovative future rooted in its history and stories.

6 What has been your biggest satisfaction from working behind the bar?
-Every time a guest comes back.

7. If you were to have a conversation with a cocktail, (and presuming it could talk back to you and tell you its past). Which cocktail would it be and why?
-That has happened to me! We talked about their roots and essence, their evolution and transformations and their raison d’être.
But they don’t let me interview them! If I could prepare a list of must-answer questions it would probably be for the Brandy Crusta.

8 What influences your drinks from outside the industry (i.e. art, fashion)?
-The ingredients themselves, people. The weather.

9 If you were to break a bartending golden rule what would it be?
-I broke David Wondrich’s Esquire rule number 99 a few times…

10 Outside of flavor and the craft of the cocktail what in your opinion affects the appreciation of cocktails the most?
-Occasion, company and atmosphere. You need to read the moment.

11 If you were to champion a cocktail which would it be?
-Pink gin, made with Plymouth Navy Strength.

Beefeater's master Distiller Desmond Payne

Desmond is the chief distiller at Beefeater gin in London. He is fabled to be able to break down any complex spirit through smell alone. He ha been with beefeater since 1995.

1.What was the first drink/spirit you ever tasted and what was your reaction
- It was sherry – at my Christening! Just a taste on my lips, but I guess that’s what did it!

2.What was the first drink/spirit you really fell in love with and why?
- I really think it was gin. I was intrigued by the exotic taste and it seemed a very sophisticate drink.

3.What is a flavour you have discovered recently?
- I am interested particularly in how flavours combine to create new sensations. The use of pine shoots, for instance, in Beefeater Winter Edition, gives a very different way to how the juniper delivers.

4.If you could give a piece of invaluable advice to someone looking to start distilling / distillery what would it be?
- Take your time. Don’t try to change the world before you know how it works.

5.What does the future hold for yourself/company and the industry?
- Well, after more than 40 years in the distilling business, the future is probably shorter than the past! Having said that, I have no plans to retire yet. The gin industry is on a roll just now and I intend to stay a part of it.

6.what is your greatest satisfaction from working with spirits / in a distillery?
- I have been really fortunate throughout my career to be involved in all aspects of the business from buying the botanical ingredients, through distillation, and on to my involvement with cocktails and the bar trade. The creation of my first gin with Beefeater 24 is probably the greatest highlight.

7.If you were to have a conversation with a spirit (and presuming it could talk back and tell you its past) what would it be?
- When you start to have conversations with your drink, it is probably time to give up drinking.

8.Which to you is the most appealing spirit and why?
- No surprise, it is Gin. Because it is such a versatile spirit it can combine with so many other flavours. This is why I call gin the sociable spirit.

9.What are your 3 favourite cocktails involving spirits you have either worked on or are a fan of?
- Only three? No1. The Negroni. No.2 The Manhattan, and No.3 the Gibson Martini.

10.What prompted you to go into distilling?
- I was working in the wine trade and joined a company called Seager Evans in Deptford.in 1967. As well as dealing in wine, they also had a gin distillery. The rest is history.

Luca Cordiglieri Interview

1. What is the first cocktail you ever made?
- A Gin Martini in my father's bar, back in Italy in Santa Margherita Ligure near Genoa, where I was born and bred. I was 18 a very long time ago!! I made it for a regular guest, Giorgio, under my old man's supervision. Giorgio liked it or at least he said he did!

2. What are your 3 favorite drinks plus recipes; old, new and your own?

- Old depending on my mood, could be a manhattan with rye or bourbon or a Negroni, New I recently went to the Connaught and really enjoyed a Balsamico Martinez and I also did taste a cardamon Daiquiri at 69 Colebrook row that was memorable. My own is a combination of Beefeater 24, The King’s ginger liqueur, Benedictine, Cardamom Bitter, Szechuan peppers, stirred over ice and served into a martini glass, It will be on the new menu at China Tang so you're all welcome to come and try it.

3.Tell us about a new flavor you have discovered recently?

-Mao Tai a chinese spirit made with sorghum, quite nutty and chocolatey but very overpowering, a bar spoon of it takes over the whole drink!

4. If you could pass just one thing, on to an apprentice bartender what would it be?
- Travel, travel and travel. I think travel is great to see new ideas, opens the mind and it's also a great life experience.

5. What does the future hold for yourself and what do you see happening in the future in the industry?

- I hope the future for me holds my own bar at some point. As for the industry I think the status of bartenders will continue to grow with the general public, the profession is so much more respected now than it was say 15 years ago. but I can also see a move towards proper qualifications for working behind the bar in both product knowledge and service. Who knows one day we might have a degree in bartending there is surely enough subjects!!

6. What has been your biggest satisfaction from working behind the bar?

-It has to be taking the Chairmanship at the UKBG, as at the beginning I was full of doubts but as the time progressed I felt growing into the role and really enjoyed it! Also the response from the industry was fantastic which was a great motivator.

7. If you were to have a conversation with a cocktail, (and presuming it could talk back to you and tell you its past). Which cocktail would it be and why?

- I think it has to be an Adonis, one of the first cocktails I learnt and it brings back memories of when I first started. Also a while back I tried to do some research on it and could not find much out. I would love to talk to it, find out exatcly who created it, how the creator came up with the idea to use sherry as the main base, who were the people drinking it.

8. What influences your drinks from outside the industry (i.e. art, fashion)?

- I sometimes look at chef's recipes for inspiration.

9. If you where to break a bartending golden rule what would it be?

- Top of my head there is only 2 rules I wouldn't break, one is the grooming which for me it's really important and the other one is personal touch. People will always come back to the bar where they will be recognised and made feel at home. Everything else can be broken and it should be, only this way one can push the boudaries and find new things.

10. Outside of flavor and the craft of the cocktail what in your opinion effects the appreciation of cocktails the most?
10. In my experience a cocktail to sell in a bar needs to sound nice, so when people read the ingredients they are enticed to try them.


11. If you where to champion a cocktail which would it be?

A Widow's Kiss, a combination of Apple Brandy, Yellow Chartreuse, Benedectine and Angostura Bitters shaken and served into a cocktail glass. We tried this cocktail for our new menu at China Tang and we were surprised how the ingredients worked so well together.

Classic Cocktail Making at 69 Colebrooke Row

The gentle and mindfull folk at 69 have added another date to their series of masterclass' due to popular demand.

Information is below and be sure to get in quickly as spaces are strictly limited!

"Our next Master Class has been scheduled for next Saturday, 12 March from 2-4pm here at the bar with no name."

"Due to demand we have organised another of our most popular class. We will discuss the secrets to making all of the time-tested favourites: The martinin, manhattan & old fashion, daiquiri & margarita as well as our popular Colebrooke Classics. This is a great class for both the novice and seasoned drinker - all are welcome."

"The class will cap at 25 guests. To reserve your space, please contact drinks@69colebrookerow.com"